Embera Indian Vilage

Embera Indian Village Tours

We ventured into the deep rain forest, one hour by road and 20 minuets by dugout canoe with a 60 horsepower outboard. There were two Embera Indians aboard, one to drive and one to bail. It seams the canoes leak. The Embera are an indigenous Indian culture that has lived in the rain forest for all of their memories. The area this family group lives in has been declared a National Preserve. The Panamanian Government retrained them to live under the new rules of the preserve which does not allow them to hunt. They still collect the plants to make the color dies for their crafts, which are items they use in every day life. We had a class on how they produce the dies and color the palm leafs. Darlene even got a Embera traditional tattoo. It will fade away in seven to ten days. The men, woman and children are all adorn with many tattoos. They also carve hard woods, mahogany, rock wood and rose wood into magnificent sculptors.

When we first arrived I was some what apprehensive as the men were dressed in loin cloths and the woman in colorful wrap around skirts. . We were put at ease after arriving at their village. They were genuine and sincere with amazing crafts to sell. We had dinner of talapia and fried plantain. The fried plantain looked more like chips but was tasty. The fish was half of a whole fish. The children were most interesting as the girls gathered around some of the younger woman in the tour to admire their painted toe nails and toe rings. The boys seamed oblivious to our arrival as they continued to play until the food was served. We brought watermelons and pineapples which was a treat for the children. There is an on site school that goes through sixth grade. Some go to Panama City and live in missions to further there education. I have to admire there commitment to family. One young man I was talking to tried to went to collage and became a tour guide, but missed his family, went back to the tribe, and now has wife and two kids. His comment was I miss my family. How many times have your heard some express a desire to live the simple life.

After dinner we were treated to some ritual dances and then asked to join in for the last farewell dance. It was actually mandatory, as it would have been rude not to dance. I was politely coaxed by two young girls that giggled as we paraded around the community lodge. The music was from instruments the men make for trees, bamboo, and an occasional dear that they kill. A bamboo flute, two different size drums, maracas, and a turtle shell shaped for it sound. It did sounded great.

Panama City

The Panama City tour was mainly of the Old City and then the Colonial City. Much of the Old City had been destroyed by the inhabitants to thwart an invasion by the pirate Henry Morgan. It was then relocated and rebuilt . What remains of the Old City is now protected as and archeological site. The new area is called the Colonial City and is still in use today. The Panamanian White House is located in the Colonial City. The Colonial City area is also undergoing a revitalization, saving the outside of buildings and remodeling the interiors for living, restaurants and business. We saw where Noriega used to live and party. It seams that his removal is appreciated, and credited for the economic growth of Panama.

We had a great lunch with coconut flan to die for. We then went to a high spot overlooking the city in the canal zone that had been controlled by the US. Great vistas with good pictures.

Panama Canal Transit

We left the marina around 2 pm and headed for the F anchorage, where waited until around 4 PM. We had an adviser board the boat and off we went to the first lock. We rafted with two other boats, us to port, a catamaran in the center and another boat to starboard just prior to entering the lock. As we entered the locks, the line handlers on the walls tossed us a heaving line to tie to our heavy duty 125' lines. They waited until we entered the lock and were almost to the end before pulling the heavy line to the top of the lock. The second, third and forth raft entered behind us and when all were secured, the gates closed. Water rushed in from the bottom of the lock and we rose quite quickly. “When we were at the top of the lock the forward gate opened and on we went to the second chamber and third chamber where the process was repeated. Each time the line handlers would pass the heavy line back to the boat for the walk to the next chamber.

Transiting the canal at night was interesting, as the lights on the canal made it seam like day. The weather was comfortably cool as most nights in Panama this time of the year. After the last chamber, we proceed to the next anchorage area and rafted up to the same boat that we rafted to for the transit. They tied to a quite large anchor buoy with a line from bow and stern to the buoy to allow another boat to tie to the other side. It was a comfortable night but an early rise for the return of the advisers. They were supposed to be there at 5:45 AM but didn't show until 6:45, Oh well! We did make or 11 AM transit at the next lock, Pedro Manuel, where we rafted and repeated the process as before. As we passed through the Miraflores lock, where there is also a tour stand for people to watch the lock operation, I was amazed at all the waving as we passed in front of the spectators. It was as if we all knew each other. Expensive phone calls back home insured that our loved ones back home had seen us on the video cams.

From the last lock we went under the Bridge of the Americas, because it joins North America with South America, and on to our anchorage. Our next goal is to get the boat pulled to fix the rudder.

Shelter Bay Marina in Colon

The trip to Colon was a broad reach and then down wind. We left San Blas after dark so we would have a daylight arrival in Colon. The ships and freighters were so thick you could almost walk from ship to ship. Most were anchored as we approached the canal zone, all waiting for there turn to transit, but we passed many in the night. The passage was also made harder because we needed to stay close to shore in a 1 knot current to avoid the 2 to 3 knot current further off shore. We spent most of our time here at Shelter Bay Marina trying to arrange to get the steering problem fixed. Many phone calls to Benetau and a trip to Panama City to arrange a haul out. I think our temporary fix is good and we are set to transit the canal starting on Saturday. The first set of locks to the lake will be done at night. We will then anchor over night and transit the down locks to the Pacific on Sunday. A big thanks to Mike for making a trip here to deliver the rudder parts.

We did have time to take a tour of the locks. The sight of the huge ships, just clearing the sides of the canal was awe inspiring. The mechanical mules pulling the ships along at a snails pace was riveting. On Sunday as we transit the Miraflores lock around noon, you can watch on the live video feed. http://www.pancanal.com/eng/photo/camera-java.html?cam=Miraflores.

San Blas Islands

Our stay in the San Blas islands was very enjoyable. The Kuna Indians, the shortest people second only to the pigmy, were very hospitable. They live under independent rule but are part of Panama. They would paddle, or sail their dugout, called a ulu, to sell their mollas are decorative squares made from colorful material. We were mostly unimpressed until a master molla maker came by our boat. His art work was quite exquisite. The Kunas were also selling lobster and fish, but we still had some frozen lobster from home so we didn't buy the still kicking lobster. Maybe next time.

A visit to a Kuna village was what you would expect of a people living as they have for hundred of years. Community houses built from sugar cane and palm frond with large family groups living in a single structure. Some buildings had tin roofs and were made of wood and were for community gatherings.

The islands were strewn with coconut palms with even the smallest spit of land supporting a single coconut palm, as if out of a cartoon or movie of someone stranded on and desert island. Coconuts are a major source of income for the Kuna Indians.

Finally in Panama

We arrived in Panama or the canal zone yesterday Tuesday the 21st. While trying to dock we noticed we had limited rudder movement.  Oh sheet. We have made an improvision to get us through the canal where parts should be waiting for us on the other side.  A short haul out and we will be on our way. The weather is hot like Florida summer but nice in the evening.  I am thinking of all the family and friends I have left behind but also looking forward to the adventure ahead. Pictures later today or tomorrow along with some stuff from the San Blas Islands.

Under way again

Next scheduled stop San Blas Panama

Good decisions bad decisions

The decision to stop at the Dry Tortugas was a good decision.  We arrived 24 hours before the front.  With the wind light we used the spade anchor with 90 feet of chain. That should hold in a protected anchorage. We enjoyed agreat 24 hours on the hook. Well Tony's question about a danford type anchor was prophetic. Yes we dragged, reset, draged, reset, dragged until we got out the danford which grabbed and held in 35 knots of wind on the first set. So next time your at the boat show let the spade anchor sales person know.

We are now waiting for the wind to subsided before heading to Panama.

Finally under way

Here is the photo of the going away party

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